Tailor&#39;s gauge



cuff.

Patented Feb. 23, 1932 PATENT OFFICE ISADORE COUTT, F ST. LOUIS,MISSOURI TAILOR S GAUGE Application led September My invention relatesto the tailoring industry and consists in a novel gauge or measuringdevice for use in forming the cuffs of mens trousers.

In forming an ordinary cuff, it is customary for the tailor or bushelmanto measure the length of the leg, then to measure the width of the cubelow the end of the leg` measurement, then to draw a fold line acrossthe leg, then to measure again the width of the cuff and draw anotherfold line, then to measure the width of the facing and draw La cut oli1line, then to reverse the leg and duplicate the marking on the otherside.

The object of my invention is to facilitate the successive operationsjust described and to eliminate the errors in measuring and in drawingof the folds and cut offs which are likely to occur unless exceptionalcare is ex- 1 ercised at all times by the workman. In the accompanyingdrawings which illustrate a selected embodiment of my invention- Figurel is a top view of a preferred form of my gauge or measuring` device.

Figure :2 is a section through the goods of one side of a trouser legshowing` the approved method of folding the same to form an ordinary orregular cud.

Figure 3 is a similar section illustrating the formation of a Frenchcuil' which is used when there is insuflicient goods to form the regularcuff or when for other reasons it is desired to use a less amount ofgoods in the Figure 4 is a similar section illustrating the formation ofa French cuff with false facing which is used when still less materialis available for the cuff.

Each of the cuff structures referred to is in common use and does notconstitute any part of my invention.

The gauge is formed of a longitudinal sheet, preferably of fiber, brassor similar durable material which may be used in a thin sheet. The lefthand end of this sheet forms a` gauge for measuring off and cutting thethree types of cuffs illustrated in Figures 2, 3 and 4 and the righthand end of the sheet forms a gauge for measuring and cutting the 7,1929. Serial No. 390,987.

material at the lower vend of the trouser leg where a plain cud is to beformed.

The gauge on the left hand end of the sheet consists of a series ofslots arranged at proper distance apart and wide enough to permit thepassage therethrough of a piece of tailors chalk or soapstone formarking on the goods beneath the gauge. The sides of the slots and thesides of the sheet form substantially parallel edges and the sheet bearssuitable marking to indicate which edges are to be used for the desiredcuff structure.

For example, to mark olf the fold line and cutting` line for an ordinarytwo-inch cuff, the user will apply the upper edge l of the sheet to thepoint of leg measurement, arranging the gauge transversely of thetrouser leg and by placing notches 2 on a seam of the trouser leg, thegauge will extend at right angles to the seam and to the trouser legrather than at different angles as is likely to occur if the gauge ismerely laid across the goods and its position judged hy the eye of theuser.

The user then draws along the upper edge of slots 3 and 4 and along thebottom side 5 of the gauge sheet. The trouser leg is then reversed andsimilar markings made on the opposite side to correspond with the firstseries of markings. The gauge is then removed and the goods cut alongthe line 5 and the cuilI forming portion then folded along the lines 3and 4 as indicated at 3 and 4 in Figure 2.

If it is desired to form a one-and-one-halfinch cuff, the three lines tobe drawn are indicated on the gauge at 'the end of slots y6. The lowestslot marked 6 being the same as slot 4 for the two-inch cuff, but in theinchand-one-half cuff this slot indicates the cutting olf line whereasin the two-inch cuff it indicates the lower fold line. Similarly, for

an inchand-three-quarters cuff, the user will mark along the slot 7.

If it is desired to mark for a French cuff, the user will apply the slot8 to the point of the length of leg measurement, draw a mark throughoutthe length of the slot, draw another mark along the upper edge l of thegauge, draw another mark along the slot 9 and draw a fourth mark alongthe lower edge 5 of the gauge. After reversing the trouser leg andduplicating this marking, the cuff forming portions of the goods may befolded along the lines 8 and 0 as indicated at 8 and 9 in Figure 3 toform a French cuff, the mark 1, forming a guide line for the upper foldS and the line 5 forming a cutting off guide line.

If there is insnicient goods to form the French cuff', lslot 10 may beused as the cutting off gauge line and the French cuff1 formed with afalse facing as indicated in Figure il, additional facing element 11being applied in the usual manner.

By spacing the slots from each other and from the edges of the gauge asindicated by the dimensions at the left hand end of Figure 1 the sameedge may be used as a gauge line for diderent cuffs. For instance, theupper slot 7 which is one and three quarters inches from the top edge ofthe gauge forms the guide for the upper fold line of aone-andthree-quarter-inch regular cuff and also forms the legmeasurement line of the French cuff and the top edge of the gauge formsthe measurement line for all sizes of regular cuffs and also forms thetop fold line for the French cuffs. Similarly slot 10 forms the markingedge of the cut off line for the inchand-one-half regular cuff' and forthe French cuff with false facing, being located, however, at differentdistances from the leg measurement lines to these two cuffs. 'Ihis slotalso forms the lower fold line for the two-inch regular cufl".

The slots as dimensioned in Figure 1 are adapted for use in constructingcuffs of the sizes and styles in general use today, but it will be acomparatively7 easy matter to change the relations of the slots to eachother and to the edges of the gauge to adapt the gauge for cuffs ofother sizes or arrangements of folds.

An additional feature of my gauge is the provision of suitable edges formarking ofil a` plain cuff trouser leg. This part of the gauge is shownat the right hand end of Figure 1 and I contemplate reversal of thegauge when this plain cuff portion is to be used.

Vhen applied, the notches 12 being alined with the seam, the curvedslots 13, 14 and 15 and the curved edge 16 will be disposed at the anglewhich will bring the lower edge of the cuff at the right incline acrossthe instep of the wearer. Applying slot 13 to the leg measurement, slots14 and 15 and the gauge side 16 form marking edges for different widthsof false facing as indicated.

I prefer to apply a scale 17 along one edge of the gauge to be used inmarking the width ofcuffs or for other measuring purposes, but this isnot an essential feature of my design.

I- contemplate the exclusive` use of such modifications of my inventionas are in its commercial development and come within the scope of myclaims.

I claim:

1. A tailoring gauge for use in forming cuffs on trouser legs comprisinga sheet for application to the goods of the trouser leg and having anedge adapted to extend transversely of the trouser leg at the point ofleg measurement, there being a slot substantially parallel with saidedge and spaced therefrom through which slot the first fold of a cuff ofa certain size may be marked, there being a second slot parallel withsaid first mentioned slot and in predetermined relation thereto throughwhich the second fold of the cufl' may be marked and there being a thirdslot spaced from said first and second mentioned slots and inpredetermined relation thereto through which the cut off line of thecuff may be marked.

2. A tailoring gauge for use in forming the cuiifs on trouser legscomprising a sheet with a plurality of substantially parallel edgesformed by the sides of the sheet and by slots in the sheet between itssides, one of said edges being applicable to the trouser leg so as toextend transversely thereof at the point of leg measurement, there beinga group of said edges along a selected one of which the line of thefirst fold of cufl's of desired widths may be marked, there being asecond group of edges each in a predetermined relation to acorresponding edge of said first mentioned group and along acorresponding one of which the line of second fold of said cuff may bemarked, and there being a third group of edges each in a predeterminedrelation to a corresponding edge of said first mentioned group and alonga corresponding one of which the line of cutting the end of the trousermaterial may be marked.

In testimony whereof I hereunto affix my signature this 19th day ofAugust, 1929.

ISADORE COUTT.

